Amiga Plus 1995 #2/Amiga Plus CD - 1995 - No. 2.iso/internet/faq/englisch/textilerelatedbooks

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Archive-name: crafts/textiles/books/part1
Last-modified: 6 Dec 1994


The following is the third of three lists of Frequently Asked Questions for
the alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles.* groups.  I plan to use the same FAQ's
for all newsgroups as long as most of the information remains pertinent to
both groups.

This FAQ covers books related to all types of sewing, fitting and drafting.
Like most of us, I don't know all the answers; I've just collected the wisdom
of the net and a few gems from magazines.

Any additions or comments about books in this list or books that are missing
will be appreciated and can be mailed to me.  Many of these reviews could use
a bit more organization and I'm working on it as time permits!  This FAQ is
definitely a FAQ-in-progress so please be patient!  Thanks to the many
contributers and thanks in advance to any book reviews that are mailed in.
There are so many new books being published.

Finally, I will be trying to make this information easily available on the
WWW.  Any ideas on making it available via gopher, archie, etc are greatly
appreciated.


                    -Lara J. Fabans
                    Silicon Graphics, Inc

Internet:[e-mail]
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The first post concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information
and restoring antique sewing machines.  The second post concentrates on
costuming and historical clothing.  The third post contains a list of books
that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting.

While creating this list I have concentrated on books that are easily
available.  Most books listed are in print.  Those that are out of print are
occassionally available in used book stores or from Inter-library loan
programs.  (See the "Sources For Out of Print Needlework Books:" section of
the textile FAQ).  This list does NOT cover every book available, but I have
tried to include a few comments about the most popular and most useful books.

I have tried to acknowledge the sources for most comments.  Electronic
addresses are in square brackets. Cross references in the text are in
squiggly braces (with apologies to people on machines where this convention
isn't easy to read).  The cross references use the abbreviations listed in
the Table of Contents below.

Additionally, some books contain the label [HIST-COST].  Most of these books
are in the drafting section.  These books are particularly relevant for
historical costuming.

Some of these reviews are fairly lengthy so I have used "ctrl-L" between the
different sections of this FAQ.  Note: within the "rn" news reader you can
use:
      g VBS:
at the "More --##%--" prompt to go directly to book review labelled VBS: (note
that case is significant for "rn").  I have used this abbreviated form to
allow easy access to the list.



Significant changes since posting of 11/21/1994:
Added more book references.
Added three new sections on craft, embellishment, and home dec.
Rearranged a few oddball things.



Table of Contents:

Magazines and Periodicals considered extremely useful (brief list):
    MP: Magazines and Periodicals

General sewing books suitable for complete novices:
    GSB: Suggestions for general sewing books suitable for a novice
    S: Simplicity
    R: Rachbad

General sewing books suitable as reference for novice or intermediate sewers:
    RDCGtS: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
    CBoSSC: The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts. Claire B. Shaeffer
    FSG: The Fabric Sewing Guide. Claire B. Schaeffer
    VSB: The Vogue Sewing Book. Elizabeth J. Musheno (editor)
    SSSbS: Singer's Sewing Step by Step
    VBSbSGtST: The Vogue/Butterick Step By Step Guide To Sewing Techniques
    DE: Dressmaking Explained. Anne Ladbury.
    SS/C: Sew Smart. Judy Lawrence and Clotilde.
    SRL: the new Singer Reference Library series of books
    SB: Sandra Betzina's books. Sandra Betzina.
    NZ: Nancy Zieman's books and videos. Nancy Zieman.
    T: New books from Tauton Press
    OOP: Out of print recommendations

Sewing books on specialty topics:
    NT: Notes on Tailoring
    TT&CT: Tailoring: Traditional and Contemporary Techniques.
        N. Marie Letbetter  & Linda Thiel Lansing
    CTT: Classic Tailoring Techniques.
        Roberto Cabrera & Patricia Flaherty Meyers
    pointers to books in other sections
    C: Couture. Roberta Carr.
    IS: Innovative Serging (todo)
    PP: Sew Any Patch Pocket (Claire B. Shaeffer)
    SASiP: Sew Any Set-In Pocket (Claire B. Shaeffer)
    S: Shirtmaking. David Page Coffin
    NSBC: Notes on Sewing Books for Children
    MFSB: My First Sweing Book
    LS: Let's Sew, a Beginners Sewing Guide

Sewing books on home decorating:

The rest is in Part II:

Books on Fitting:
    IF: Introduction to fitting
    VF: Vogue Fitting. Sandra Lenker.
    FF: Fabulous Fit. Patricia Perry (editor)
    MYCF: Making Your Clothes Fit. Patricia Burkhart Smith.

Books on Pattern Drafting:
    IPD: Brief intro to subject of pattern drafting
    PFD: Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Helen Joseph Armstrong.
    EK: Ernestine Kopp's series of books. Ernestine Kopp, et. al.
    PPfD: Professional Patternmaking for Designers. Jack Handford.
    DD: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
        Marion Hillhouse & Evelyn Mansfield
    MPD: Modern Pattern Design. Harriet Pepin.
    AFD: Art of Fashion Draping. Connie Amaden-Crawford.
    DfFD: Draping for Fashion Design. Hilde Jaffe & Nurie Relis
    PD: Precision Draping. Nelle Weymouth Link.
    PoFPD: Principles of Flat Pattern Design. Nora MacDonald & Ann Weibel.
    HtMSP:  How to Make Sewing Patterns. Donald. H. McCunn.
    FoMFD: Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design. Nasaaki Kawashima.
    MPCfM: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. Winifred Aldrich.
    TS:  Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin.
    S: Sleeves. Louise Todd Cape.
    FDPS: Fashion Design for the Plus-Size. Frances Leto Zangrillo.
    GTfMD: Grading Techniques for Modern Design.
        Jeanne Price & Bernard Zamkoff
    MNPD: Miscellaneous notes on Pattern Drafting

Miscellaneous:
    DD: Decorative Dressmaking. Sue Thompson
    MYOJC: Make Your Own Japanese Clothes. John Marshall.
    FYF: Flatter Your Figure. Jan Larkey.
    GE: Great Expectations (maternity)
    ARtW: Altering Women's/Men's Ready to Wear

Craft:
    ST: How to Make Stuffed Toys. Rudi de Sarigny.
    SMG: Sew Many Gifts, Sew Little Time (Chris Rankin)

Embellishment:
    101E: 101 Embellishments (Janet Rostocki)

FAQ: Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?

MP: Magazines and Periodicals

Threads: Great source of ideas and techniques.  Covers sewing and many other
crafts.  Very high quality articles and pictures.  Each issue typically has
*at least* one article about a clothing designer and one article discussing
techniques for a specific sewing topic (e.g. welt pockets, traditional
collars, cuffs, etc).  Many articles discuss techniques used in haute couture
houses or well known designer's workshops.  Some articles discuss drafting
patterns or special fitting issues. I've noticed that they've been putting the
best of their articles in books also available from Taunton Press.
$4.75/issue. Subscription about $24 for 6 issues (one year).
Taunton Press; 63 South Main Street; PO Box 5506; Newtown CT 06470-9976


Sew News: Available in many fabric stores.  A number of fashion related
features that show patterns and material, several question and answer columns
and reviews, a column that shows how to copy an (expensive) designer original
for minimal cost, articles on techniques for clothing or home decorating.
$2.95/issue.  $12.95 for a one year subscription.
PJS Publications; PO Box 1790; News Plaza; Peoria, IL 61656.


Piecework: Emphasized historical crafts and reproductions of historical
crafts.  Sewing, embroidery, weaving, etc.  Wide variety of topics similar to
Threads' variety in earlier years.  Stresses the historical aspects of crafts
and historically accurate reproductions.  $24 for 6 issues per year.
Interweave Press; 201 East Fourth Street; Loveland, CO 80537;
1-800-645-3675; [phone] 8-5 Mountain time.


Burda: see sewing FAQ
Vogue Patterns: see sewing FAQ. recommended for ideas and techniques by
    Yvonne Wilson ([e-mail])
Butterick Patterns: see sewing FAQ
McCalls Patterns: see sewing FAQ
Handwoven: Interweave Press, see sewing FAQ
Spinoff: Interweave Press, see sewing FAQ



GSB: Suggestions for general sewing books suitable for a novice.

Very few books discussed in the newsgroups seem to be appropriate for a
complete novice.  Most introductory books are written for a person who has had
a minimal amount of experience, possibly in high school Home Ec classes.  For
this reason, I would suggest that people who have never sewn before consider
take an introductory class from a local community college, BOCES (vo-tech),
experimental college class or sewing store.  Or consider learning from some of
the videos available from Sandra Betzina {SB:} and Nancy Zieman {NZ:}.
Nancy's Notions includes a video rental club.

However, if you are the sort of person who prefers learning a new hobby by
reading books, your best bet may be Singer's _Sewing Step By Step_ {SSSbS:} or
several of the new books in the Singer series {SRL:}; the first book is _Sewing
Essentials_ {SRL,SE:}.  Both of these books are discussed below under general
reference books.

For anyone on a limited budget, don't forget to check used book stores and the
public library or Interlibrary Loan program.  Many public libraries have large
collections of hobby related books.



General sewing books suitable as reference for novice or intermediate sewers:

RDCGtS

_Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing_: This is my favorite general sewing
reference.  Although I've sewn for many years on my own, I learned alot when I
borrowed this book for a weekend and read it cover to cover.  This book is
laid out as a reference book.  The reference section is very well illustrated
and easy to use.  The illustrations are two, three or four color drawings.  A
typical page contains a paragraph of general information, 6-8 illustrations
and 3-5 sentences of notes under each illustration.  Topics include the basics
of supplies, types of fabrics (caution: this book is faily old!), fitting a
muslin and basic construction techniques.  Other subjects include necklines
and collars, waistbands and belts, sleves, pockets, hems, buttons, zippers,
other closures, tailoring, sewing for men, sewing for children and sewing for
the home.

I have found all of the sections to cover a wide variety of methods and the
instructions and illustrations are clear.  Generally every step of a technique
is illustrated so you can easily follow the pictures while working through the
method.  This book is very valuable as a thorough reference for someone who
knows the basics.  Given the price and the availability, I feel this is a very
good basic reference.  However, this is a fairly old book and it's age is
starting to show.  The "projects" in the back all have a 1960's-70's feel to
them.  The section on fabrics does not include many of the newer synthetics
commonly available.

_Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing_. The Reader's Digest Association,
Inc. copyright 1976, 1977, 1978. ISBN 0-89577-026-1. 528 pages.  Readily
available in chain stores for about $22+/-; often available in used book
stores for about $15.



CBoSSC:

_The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts_: The "shortcuts" in the title of this
book does not refer to "quick and dirty things you can do that won't really
show too much" but rather to "techniques you can use to make your garments
look professional without wasting too much time trying to figure out tricky
or complicated methods by trial and error".  I wish Shaeffer had not used
"shortcuts" in the title as I feel it implies speed rather than perfecting a
technique.

Like the Reader's Digest book, this book is a reference book that covers a
wide number of techniques.  The book is illustrated with two and three color
drawings that show the important steps of each technique.  While the
illustrations in the Reader's Digest book cover each method step by step,
Shaeffer's book has more techniques and more advanced techniques.  I have used
her procedures several times (rolled hems, set in zippers, interfacing) and
have found them generally easy to follow and well written.  Occassionally you
need to flip between sections to check on definitions, etc.  The book is a
combination of tips and techniques in a reference format.

Topics include: organization, sewing machine, basic skills, interfacing,
preliminaries, seams, hems, facings, controlling fullness, zippers, buttons
and closures, sleeves, cuffs and plackets, collars, waistlines, linings,
pockets, fashion details and special techniques for special fabrics.

I am very fond of both Shaeffer's book and the Reader's Digest book.  I would
be hard pressed to say which I found more useful.  Many procedures are covered
in both books and either is a very good reference.  The Reader's Digest book
has better illustrations and may be more appropriate for a novice.

_The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts_. Claire B. Shaeffer. copyright 1981.
ISBN 0-8069-7564-4.  $12.95 paperback. 256 pages. Sterling Publishing Company.
(Note: Shaeffer also has a new book called the _Fabric Sewing Guide_ for $28
that tells how to select, handle and sew a wide range of fabrics.  I have not
read this book.)


FSG: The Fabric Sewing Guide. Claire B. Schaeffer

highly recommended reference.  Very detailed.  Too repitious to just read
cover to cover (altho I'm working on it!), but good as a reference.  "real"
review to be added later.  $30 paperback


VSB:

_The Vogue Sewing Book_: The first edition of this book was in 1970 and the
second edition was released in 1973.  I believe it was updated and re-issued
again around 1979.  My copy is the 1973 edition and I do not know what changes
were made between the various editions.  I believe this book may be out of
print, but it is often available in used book stores.  The pictures in the
book are rather dated as they show mostly 1960-70's fashions.

This book is more like a general sewing text than RDCGtS.  It is suitable as a
reference book, although I don't think it is the best reference.  It is
illustrated with a series of two and three color drawings (typically 2-4
drawings per page) and a several sections of color photographs of 1960-1970's
fashions.  There are several large glossaries (one in the fabric section and
another in the back).  The basic subjects include supplies, fabrics (a fairly
detailed section), patterns and fitting and general construction techniques.
There is a large "handbook" section that includes details about standard items
such as hems, zippers, cuffs, waistbands, pleats, etc.  Other topics include
tailoring, couture techniques, trims, sewing for men and planning a sewing
room.  In general, Vogue Sewing Book seems to present only a few variations
for accomplishing most tasks.  Many other reference books present a wider
range of methods allowing the sewer to select the one she feels most
comfortable with.

The Vogue sewing book.  Published by Vogue Patterns.  NY, NY. copyright 1973.
Elizabeth J. Musheno, editor.  464 pages.  Often available used.



SSSbS: [[e-mail] (Nancy Reynolds, c/o Adam M Gaffin)]

Singer's Sewing Step by Step: My mother taught me to sew, so I don't know what
the "best" beginning sewing book is.  I have Singer's "Sewing Step by Step."
It costs $24.95, is hardbound, has slick pages and beautiful color photos.
Here are some of the topics it covers.  (a mixture of both beginning and
advanced material.)

Essential Equipment--marking tools, measuring tools, cutting tools, etc.
Notions--thread, trims & tapes, buttons & closures, zippers
A Place to Sew
The Pattern--The pattern envelope, Inside the pattern
Fabric Essentials--handling special fabrics, sheer & silky fabrics,
    lustrous fabrics, knits, classic fabrics, etc.
Interfacing, Layout, Cutting & Marking--preparing the fabric, laying out
    the pattern, laying out plaids & stripes...
Fit--understanding ease; General guidelines for pattern adjustments
Seams--encased seams, stretch seams, conventional edge finishes
Construction basics include: Darts, Gathers, Sleeves, Collars, Waistbands,
    Cuffs; Closures; Hems
Tailoring (definitely advanced!)
Sewing activewear
Sewing for children
Machine Heirloom
sewing Home decorating projects (This is a 100 page section!)

This book explains things carefully without it feeling like a textbook.  The
color photographs are a delight. The home sewing section explains how to do
projects in such a way that you don't need to buy patterns to carry out the
ideas.  The nice thing about this book is that it is so comprehensive.  I am
not a beginner--I started sewing when I was 9 and just made my wedding
gown--but I recently bought this book to get extra tips and learn about
aspects of sewing which are foreign to me, such as tailoring and home
decorating.  But there's a lot of extremely basic stuff, such as how to read
the back of a pattern envelope and how to sew a plain seam.


Alternate comment [Diane Barlow Close, [e-mail]]: I found
Singer's Sewing Step by Step to be greatly lacking in certain steps.  On the
points I was interested in learning more about (attaching cuffs or collars,
for example) this book would state "There are so many different methods.
Refer to your specific pattern for the best instructions."  Heck, if I could
read and follow the pattern's instructions _I wouldn't be looking for a book
like this in the first place_!!  I just found it to be too lacking for my
needs.



VBSbSGtST: [[e-mail] (Diane Barlow Close)]

The Vogue/Butterick Step By Step Guide To Sewing Techniques: I've been sewing
for a while but I'm self-taught and sometimes I just get caught up on the
beginner details.  I chose The Vogue/Butterick Step By Step Guide To Sewing
Techniques.  I looked at all of the others very carefully and found that this
one provided the most niggly details on the my specific problem areas
(collars, cuffs, buttonholes).

I really liked the Reader's Digest book and it was a toss-up between choosing
this one and the Vogue/Butterick one.  What made the decision for me was the
Vogue/Butterick one is a more recent pulication.  The Reader's Digest book
hasn't been updated since the 70's and it shows.  The V/B book is 1989.



DE:

_Dressmaking Explained_: an alphabetical reference to a large number of sewing
terms and techniques.  While it's usually easy to find a topic, there is no
index and occassionally you have to guess what name Ladbury uses.

Illustated with ample text and numerous black and white drawings (2-6
illustrations per page).  Since the illustrations are not labelled you
sometimes have to spend some time figuring out which illustration goes with
the text.

I use this book occassionally, but I'm not very thrilled with it.  It contains
a vast amount of information and covers many many techniques in detail.  The
alphabetical organization is sometimes handy and sometimes frustrating!  I
have found that some of the explanations are confusing or difficult to
understand.  Furthermore the illustrations are only barely adequate.  If you
have a chance to pick this book up cheaply, do so.  I would not recommend it
as a single reference book nor as a first reference book.

_Dressmaking Explained_: A-Z of terms, processes, stitches.  Ann Ladbury.
copyright 1982. Arco Publishing. $14.95. ISBN: 0-668-06460-9.  paperback.  358
pages.  A few years ago I often saw this book remaindered for about $6.



SS/C:

Sew Smart with Wovens, Knits and Ultrasuede Fabric.  Also: Sew Smart Supplment
and UltraLeather Sewing Tips Booklet.  I have looked through these books, but
have not read them closely nor used them frequently.  _Sew Smart_ is almost a
cross between the Reader's Digest reference book and the _Vogue Sewing Book_.
It is basically a reference book with three color drawings.  Topics include:
sewing preparation, equipment, basic techniques, pressing, interfacint, darts,
facings, collars, sleeves, pockets, zippers, buttons and closures, tailoring,
hems, UltraSuede, knits, miscellaneous tips.  Each topic has an introduction,
description of basic styles and problems, list of techniques and list of tips.
The Supplement is a series of general tips.  This looks like a pretty good,
all around introduction and reference.

_Sew Smart_ by Judy Lawrence and Clotilde.  first printing 1977; revised
edition copyright 1982.  ISBN 0-8087-1261-6. 271 pages.  Also _Sew Smart
Supplement_ and _UltraLeather Sewing Tips Booklet_.  All available directly
from Clotilde, I don't know if they are available elsewhere.  I believe prices
are about $20 for _Sew Smart_, $8 for the supplement and $3 for the
Ultraleather tips.  Clotilde, Inc; 1909 SW First Ave; Fort Lauderdale, FL
33315; 305-761-8655



SRL:

Singer's Series:  Include:
    * Sewing Essentials
    * The Perfect Fit
    * 101 Sewing Secrets
    * Creative Sewing Ideas
    * Sewing Update No 2
    * Sewing Pants that Fit
    * Sewing Activewear
    * Sewing Lingerie
    * Sewing With Knits
    * Tailoring
    * Decorative Machine Stitching
    Clothing Care and Repair
    Timesaving Sewing
    Sewing for Style
    Sewing Specialty Fabrics
    Sewing Update
    Sewing Update No 1
    Sewing for Children
    Sewing with an Overlock
    Sewing for the Home
    More Sewing for the Home
    Machine Quilting
* Additional comments on contents included below.

Each book is about $15.95 paperback (often available on sale!) and about
$24.95 hardback.  The hardback (?) books can be ordered by subscription for
about $15.95 + p/h.  For more information, write to:
    Cy DeCosse Inc
    5900 Green Oak Drive
    Minnetonka, Minnesota 55343

>From my own observations and other comments in this newsgroup I have mixed
feelings about the Singer Series books.  All are beautiful books, lushly
illustrated with full color pictures that show each method step by step.  Each
book seems to be a good introduction to the topic of the title.

My reservations stem from the fact that the books are only an introduction to
a single topic.  These books are not reference books and they often cover only
a single method of doing any task.  The step-by-step color photos are
extremely clear and inspirational; unless you find that watching a
perfectionist causes anxiety or you wish to make a modification that the book
does not cover.  The books assume that you have access to an extremely well
stocked sewing room and they seldom suggest alternatives for those who have
fewer tools.

Some subjects are covered in several books, sometimes with variations in the
topics presented (e.g. swimsuits are covered different in _Sewing with Knits_
and _Sewing Activewear_).

All in all, these books *are* a very good *introduction* to a wide range of
subjects.

SRL,SE: [[e-mail]]
_Sewing Essentials_ from the Singer Reference library.  This one is great for
beginners, very clear and takes you step-by-step through the basics everyone
needs.  I have used it on 2 beginners, and with great results despite my lack
of teaching ability.  Pictures seem to be very helpful.


SRL,PF: _The Perfect Fit_: See comments in the Fitting section (in part 2)


SRL,101:
_101 Sewing Secrets_: This book is a worthwhile investment for any sewer who
has a few hours of free time to read through it.  It's just a list of tips
many of which may be new.  Topics include:
    organizing your sewing room and fabric (ha!)
    dealing with short yardage
    testing (guessing!) fiber content
    pins, needles, threads, pressing aids (including improvised aids)
    freezer paper for careful piecing
    using the rub-off technique to copy a garment (quite useful!)
    topstitching
    flat felled seams
    tab plackets (e.g. on shirt cuff)
    elastic
    zippers
    button loops and other fasteners (incl Chinese ball buttons and frogs)
    ruffles
    bias cut garments
    single thread tucks and darts
    edges and hems
I recommend this book for anyone who wants to grab a few more ideas.

SRL,CSI:
_Creative Sewing Ideas_: This book is similar to 101 Sewing Secrets, but it
contains a number of ideas for making unique garments.  Some ideas include:
    piping, including double and triple
    unique seam edges including a ravelled seam
    some dying ideas
    some fancy buttonholes and fasteners


SRL,SU2:
_Sewing Update No 2_ is similar to _Creative Sewing Ideas_ It includes a
series of several page articles written by a wide variety of people.  Some of
the topics covered include:
    Teaching Your Child to Sew
    Specialized Needles and Feet
    Computerized & Mechanical Sewing Machines: What are the Differences
    Ruching
    Marbling
    Dyeing
    The Alure of Lace
    Large-Size Savvy
    Couture Sleeves


SRL,SPtF:
_Sewing Pants that Fit_: There is a review of this book in the June/July 1992
issue of Threads (#40).  The review says the book is very useful for fitting
problems and alterations.


SRL,SA:
_Sewing Activewear_ covers a wide range of different types of materials and
techniques and thus covers each type only briefly.  I was disappointed in the
lack of depth for most of the subjects, however this book is a good intro to a
wide variety of subjects.  The sections include: 1) Getting Started, fabrics,
insultaions, interfacings, supplies, notions, patterns.  2) Actionwear:
swimwuits, peotads, tights, bicycle shorts, adding zippers.  I felt that the
_Sewing With Knits_ {SRL,SwK:} book had a better (and more detailed)
introduction to sewing swimsuits (fitting, different styles, adding elastic,
etc).  However _Sewing Actionwear_ includes instructions for modifying
patterns to add custom panels or using striped material for a unique look.  3)
Comfortwear includes sweatsuits and warm-ups with several different ideas for
neck, waist and leg finishes.  4) Outerwear has short sections discussing
details like zippers, waistbands and pockets and covers a rain poncho and and
insultaaed fleece-lined vest or jacket.  5) Personal Style includes
suggestions for using stripes, piping, braid or customized belts to
personalize your garments.  Includes a number of tips on the length of elastic
to use for various projects.


SRL,SL:
_Sewing Lingerie_ covers both intimate apparel such as underwear and slips and
sleepwear and loungewear such as robes and night clothes.  The book has four
sections.  1) Getting Started discusses patterns, fabrics, laces, elastic and
threads.  2) Basic Sewing Techniques includes tips for pattern layout and
cutting, a couple of treatments for seams, a couple of edge and hem
treatments, and applying lace and elastic.  3) Intimate Apparel includes a few
pages on slips, camisoles, panties, french bikinis, teddies, sports bras and
leggings.  4) Loungewear and Sleepwear covers nightgowns, pajamas, boxer
shorts, roboes and kimonos.


SRL,SwK:
_Sewing With Knits_ includes an interesting combination of simple clothing
from knit materials and advanced techniques to use with knit fabrics.  The
sections include: 1) Getting Started discussed fabrics, patterns, interfacings
and elastics, and cutting out the patterns.  2) Basica Sewing Techniques
includes seams and seam finishes, hems, ribbed edges and bound edges.  3) Easy
Wardrobes includes a few pages on standard patterns such as tank tops,
T-shirts and pullovers, skirts, pants and cardigans.  4) Easy Design
Variations is a section of interesting ideas such as cowl neckline variations,
modified V necks, plackets, different types of pockets, elasticized
waistbands, layered and slashed garments, and making and using twisted knit
trims.  5) Specialty Knits includes napped fabrics, sweater knits, two way
stretch knits and swimsuits and leotards.  I feel that this is a better
introduction to sewing swimsuits than the _Sewing Activewear_ book.  Also look
at Threads issue #29 June/July 1990 which has an article on sewing leotards
and exercise clothing.  The section on swimsuits includes guidelines for the
amount of stretch in patterns and the lengths of elastic to use.


SRL,T: _Tailoring_: See comments in the Tailoring section


SRL,DMS:
_Decorative Machine Stitching_ includes sections on: 1) Getting Started
discussed supplies, materials, specialty threads and needles, presser feet,
stabilizers, embroidery hoops. 2) Basic Stitches discusses a number of
different stitches and methods including decorative stitch patterns,
decorative topstitching, twin needle stitching, satin stitching, and couching.
3) Appliques discusses methods of machine applique.  4) Heirloom sewing
includes short introcutions to cutwork, fagoting, hemstitching laces and hems,
pintucks and French Hand Sewing (by machine).  5) Free motion sewing in an
introduction to free motion embroidery, thread sketching and thread painting,
and making and using battenberg lace.



SB: [[e-mail]]

_Power Sewing_ and _More Power Sewing_ by Sandra Betzina.  My personnal
perennial reference is Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina. It's not that you
wouldn't learn a lot by reading it straight through.  But it really shines by
its discussion of small precise topics, in the vein of how to do a perfect
lapel.  And it has a good range of topics, from specific fitting problems to
categories of details like pockets or collars.  I've rarely found any other of
those specifics that I like better elsewhere. [mahe]

Sandra is an extremely clear and entertaining teacher, and this reflects it.
She covers a variety of tapics from fit to mitered corners, which are culled
from her column (in the San Francisco Chronicle at least).  If you have read
her columns and not quite gotten the point, it's because the wonderful
illustrations by Amy Maeda get censored, so try the book.  This is the book
you want to use when you can't figure out what the pattern company wants you
to do.  As a matter of fact, one of Sandra's principles is to ignore the
pattern directions and just do what you know is right - this is the book that
teaches you what's right.  For example, you should just find out how to make a
really great welt pocket, and do that everywhere you want a welt pocket.  Or
figure out how to ease the sleeve, or how to add ease to it.  (Sandra makes an
exception for Issey Miyake, by the way, and she is right on that too) [mahe]

This is the best book for pointers on recovery.  Of course, it's best to
follow her advice from the start.  But if you don't and you get yourself into
trouble, she can usually help you recover.  She understands what you go
through, and she doesn't try to conceal the fact that she often doesn't buy
enough material, or sometimes messes up something.  The Saga of the White Suit
at the end of the 2nd book is priceless, it had me on the floor (it was under
'project burnout'). [mahe]

The books contain copies of articles so each topic contains a number of
articles that are short one or two page descriptions of specific problems and
solutions.  The articles are arranged by subject. The first book has a general
index; the second book does not.

The address is:
  Power Sewing
  185 Fifth Avenue
  San Francisco, CA 94118
  voice [phone]  fax [phone]
Prices are $16.95 for volume I, $19.95 for volume II, and $3.00 postage &
handling. (March 1992)




NZ:

_The Busy Woman's Sewing Book_ , _The Busy Woman's Fitting Book_ and _Slacks
Fitting Book_ by Nancy Zieman.  $9.95 each.  Book + video $34.95.  From the
creator of the _Sewing with Nancy_ show on PBS.  Several people including
[[e-mail] (Eleanor Midkiff)] have reported that they find
Zieman's books useful and helpful. Zieman also has a large number of videos
and her store even has a video rental program.  The rental program is not
cheap, but I believe it is a good way to get a vast amount of instruction in a
short period of time.  Nancy's Notions; 333 Beichl Ave; PO Box 683; Beaver
Dam, WI 53916-0683; 1-800-833-0690.


T:

Taunton Press has two new books called _Great Sewn Clothes_ and _Fit and
Fabric_.  Each is paperback, 128 pages, about 140 photos, about 60 drawings
and $16.95 ($29.95 for both).  From the information in the ads, these appear
to be books that contain approximately two dozen articles from the first four
years of Threads magazine.  I've read most of these articles and referred to a
number of them when trying to perfect a technique.  All are well written and
well illustrated.  If you do not have access to the first four years of
_Threads_, these book are probably very useful and interesting! Taunton Press;
63 South Main Street; Box 355; Newtown, CT 06470-9959; 1-800-888-8286


OOP:

The following books have been recommended in various places, often in articles
in Threads magazine.  Most are out of print.

Clothing for Women (Lippincotts Home Manuals). Laura I Baldt. c. 1927.
Includes draping, etc. (Ref: Threads #15, pg. 10)

The Dressmaker. Butterick. 1911. (Ref: Threads #15, pg. 10)

Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making. Hillhouse & Mansfield. (Ref:
Threads #15, pg. 10) Definitely Wonderful!!  Lots of draping examples.

Sew the French Way. Line Jaque. c. 1961. (Ref: Threads #15, pg. 10)

Complete Book of Dressmaking. Ann MacTaggert. c. 1975. (Ref: Threads #15, pg.
10)

Clothing Construction. Evelyn Mansfield. c. 1953. (Ref: Threads #15, pg. 10)

Modern Tailoring for Women. Francis Mauck. c. 1948 (Ref: Threads #15, pg. 10)

Creative Dressing. Kaori O'Connor. c. 1980. (Ref: Threads #15, pg. 10)

Modern Dressmaking Made Easy. Mary Brooks Picken. c. 1940. (Ref: Threads #15,
pg. 10)

Women's Instutute of Dress Design. series of books from 1910 - 1930.

There are a couple of other out of print series.  Time-Life did a series on
sewing back in the 1960's and Vogue did one in the late 60's or early 70's.  I
have seen some of the Vogue books and they seem to be fairly interesting and
useful.

Diane Barlow Close recommends _Draping and Designing With Scissors and Cloth_,
1920's and 1930's.  This is a two volume set from The Women's Institute
series, used by coutures of the era.  A reprint is now available from: Body
Blueprints; 1734 Scott St., St. Helena, CA 94574.  $18.95 + $2 s/h each vol.




Sewing books on specialty topics:

NT: Notes on Tailoring
Note about Tailoring:  There are three general methods for tailoring jackets:
    -) classic or custom method: uses horsehair canvas and hand pad
    stitches to shape the front and collars.  Labor intensive, but
    beautiful results
    -) Machine method: Uses a sewing machine to attach interfacing and
    shape a collar and the front.
    -) Contemporary methods: Uses fusible interfacing to shape the front
    of the jacket and the collar
Other aspects of tailoring, such as attaching the lining and making the
buttonholes, have several methods.  Often the methods are labelled as either
classic or contemporary.

Each method has advantages and disadvantages.  Some books (Tailoring in
{SRL,T:} and {TT&CT:}) cover all three; some books only cover one or two
methods.

Furthermore, there have been many articles on tailoring subjects.  Many
articles in Threads cover tailoring (including an examination of a quality
men's suit in an early issue!).  Many articles in Sandra Betzina's {SB:} books
cover tailoring and include good tips and suggestions.  In the July 1992
issue, Vogue Patterns started a four article series discussing tailoring.


SRL,T:
Singer Reference Library: Tailoring. I bought this book when I needed to make
my first tailored suit in about three days.  This book is suitable as a step
by step introduction to tailoring women's jackets for someone who is an
intermediate sewer.  The book discusses the three methods for tailoring the
collar and lapels: the traditional hand pad stitches, a more modern machine
stitching method, and the contmporary methods using fusible interfacing.
Whenever applicable, the book presents the three methods, starting with the
traditional hand methods and ending with the contemporary fusible methods.
The book also discusses traditional and contempory methods for attaching the
lining, setting in sleeves and making buttonholes.

The _Tailoring_ book covers only jackets and really concentrates on women's
jackets although it does mention men's jackets.  It covers a traditional
collar and a shawl collar. If you read through the book carefully (before you
start!), you can throw away the original pattern instructions and construct a
well tailored suit jacket.  You may need a fitting book to help solve
non-trivial fitting problems. If you combine this book with a more complete
Tailoring book (e.g. Ledbetter and Lansing's book) you will have a very good
introduction to a complete set of tailoring procedures.



TT&CT:

Tailoring: Traditional and Contemporary Techniques.  This is a very good and
complete guide to tailoring.  However it is NOT for beginners!  If you have
some experience sewing and want to get into tailoring, I would recommend
getting the Singer book on Tailoring {SRL,T:} and this book.  This book is a
complete reference on all aspects of tailoring, whereas the Singer book is a
good introduction with nice pictures to show you many details.  _TT&CT_ covers
all the traditional and contemporary methods discussed in Singer's book and
goes into more detail for most topics.  The illustrations are simple pen
drawings with 2-4 illustrations on each page.

TT&CT is a dense book and slow going if you try to read it cover to cover.
However if you have time, skim the book and then use it as a constant
reference while making a tailored suit.  The book is well laid out, has room
for notes in the margins and includes 30 pages of fitting and construstruction
critiques (i.e. a check list of common problems to be used during all phases
of construction).

Tailoring: Traditional and Contemporary Techniques.  N. Marie Letbetter and
Linda Thiel Lansing. copyright 1981. Renston Publishing Company.  about ?$30?.
ISBN: 0-8359-7534-7. 385 pages.


CTT:

Classic Tailoring Techniques: A construction Guide for Women's Wear
Classic Tailoring Techniques: A construction Guide for Men's Wear
both books by Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers
copyright 1984 by Fairchild Publications
both books available from Unicorn as of 4/92 (see sewing FAQ for more info)

These books discuss the classic techniques that use horsehair canvas and hand
pad stitching for shaping.  The books do not discuss machine or fusible
methods.  The Women's book includes chapters on: 1) general tailoring
supplies, equipemtnt and techniques 2) chooseing a pattern and making
preliminary adjustments such as the roll line, vents or cuffs 3) fit: taking
measurements, making a muslin, fit adjustments for the muslin, 4) selecting
and preparing fabric 5) layout and cutting, with a section devoted to stripes
and plaids 6) details of the jacket, many types of pockets, attaching and
adjusting a muslin sleeve and then attaching the final sleeve, linings and
facings, a peplum 7) skirts, basic straight with various options, strait
skirts with shiring or pleats 8) pants 9) alterations to labels, sleeves,
lining, waistline and pants.

If you do not plan to use classic construction techniques, you may find some
useful chapters in the Women's Wear book such as: discussions on bound
buttonholes, method of attaching and customizing the fit of a sleeve,
discussions of shoulder pads, many types of pockets on the jacket and in the
lining, notes on a peplum jacket, sections on skirts and pants, many types of
pockets for the skirt and pants, and the sections on fit and alterations.

Several of the sections in the Men's Wear book are very similar to the
sections in the Women's Wear book.  But the Men's Wear book includes quite a
bit of information specific to Men's Wear and if you plan to do extensive
tailoring for both sexes, you may wish to read both books.

The Men's Wear book includes sections on measurements, pattern adjustments and
fit for men's jackets, vests and pants.  Most sections include detailed
information about working with stripes or plaids.  There is a long chapter
(>100 pages) describing the steps in making the jacket, darts and pockets,
making a custom collar, making custom sleeves, fitting a muslin sleeve to
guarentee the correct hang, and the lining and lining pockets.  The section on
the pants includes several types of pockets, and customizations in the crotch
and fly that are traditional in men's tailored pants.

The Singer book on Tailoring {SRL,T:} has a very good introduction to the
classic method.  If you plan to use classic methods, the {CTT:} books provide
many details that the Singer book does not discuss.  The {CTT:} books could be
used with {TT&CT:} since they describes some details that are not in {TT&CT:}
and they have a more casual writing style with more illustrations.  Both
{CTT:} books are illustrated with simple pencil drawings and a few black and
white photographs.  The illustrations in {CTT:} are generally adequate and the
descriptions are usually clear.  The {CTT:} books have some very good tips and
illustrations for working with plaids and stripes.  Both {CTT:} books are
easier to read than {TT&CT:}, but {TT&CT:} is a more thorough general
reference.  Most importantly, the {CTT:} books cover *only* the classic or
custom methods of tailoring.



See also: Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin. {TS:}

See also: The two Power Sewing {SB:} books by Sandra Betzina.  Each book has
quite a few articles on topics related to tailoring.  The Singer book
_Tailoring_ and the two Betzina books would make a very good reference set for
making tailored suits and jackets.  Both books concentrate on sewing women's
clothing.

See also: Many sewing reference books include a section on tailoring.


C: Couture:

Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing.  by Roberta Carr. published by
Palmer/Pletsch. 1993.  About $30, 208 pages, paperback.

[Diane Barlow Close <[e-mail]>]

I finally saw Carr's _Couture_ book.  I found it to be a disappointment.  It
is badly laid out imho.  I found it very hard to skim, as things just seem to
be mish-mashed together -- text, pictures and diagrams all haphazardly placed
-- very surprising for a Chilton published text!  The colour photos that are
supposed to represent "couture garments" aren't of classic Chanel or
Schiaparelli or Poiret but seem to be a combination of junk and MTV!

When I sat down for twenty minutes with the book to study one chapter
intensely, to see if I was "missing the point", I still had a hard time
following all the loose ends and diagrams and text jumbled together on the
page.  I did find some useful stuff out of my reading and I can see how the
book could offer useful couture tips to the uninitiated, but I can't see how
that mess is worth $30!!  I _might_ still buy it on discount, simply for the
chapter on bias, but I think I'll keep an eye out for useful 1920's and 30's
texts first.



I found many useful tips in _Couture_, but Carr did not include the extremely
step-by-step instructions that I expected.  The photos of garments are
beautiful, but there are no in-progress photos.  The chapter on bias discusses
bias cut skirts, godets and bias binding.  There are no sections that discuss
designing entire garments with bias cuts (ala Madame Madeleine Vionnet).

_Couture_ includes alot of good tips and many good ideas.  It is not a
comprehensive reference of techniques, but rather an annotated sketchbook of
ideas.


Note: Robbie Fanning and Claire B. Shaeffer are both writing books on couture
techniques.  As of spring 1993, Shaeffer's book is expected to be published by
Taunton Press in about early 1994.  Shaeffer has written a number of very
good, very detailed articles on couture techniques for Threads.


PP: Sew Any Patch Pocket (Claire B. Shaeffer)

Covers many variations of patch pockets (however neither Diane nor I was able
to find directions for the pocket on the front cover!).  I found layout
slightly ackward, but reasonable and not too repetitive.  The third section of
the book includes all of the directions that apply to all pockets (e.g.
methods of applying facing, methods of sewing the pocket to the garment, etc).
The middle section is a collection of pockets with the basic directions for
each pocket.  The directions for each pocket usually refer to the instructions
in the third section so you will have to flip back and forth a few times.
This book has numerous variations and this is it's strongest point.  Shaeffer
includes half a dozen (or more?) ways to face and line a pocket!  She also has
3 or 4 ways of attaching invisable patch pockets and several options for
bellows-style pockets.  Illustrations are pen drawings and are sufficient and
plentiful.  paperback, approx $12.


SASiP: Sew Any Set-In Pocket (Claire B. Shaeffer)

Covers jeans and welt-pocket variations as well as edge pockets, porthole
pockets, set-in pockets ona patch and enough other set-in pockets to total
46 designs.  The first half of the book covers inseam pockets while the second
half covers slash pockets. Both include pocket variations from designer ready
to wear.
118p softbound b&w illustrations. Published by Chilton Book Co., 1994.
$14.95 ($18.95 Canada)
1-800-695-1214 phone
1-215-964-4745 fax


S: Shirtmaking. David Page Coffin

New book from Taunton Press (spring 1993).  Will probably be fairly detailed.
$30 for paperback book, there's also a video available.  Have not seen it yet.
real review and full reference available later.



NSBC: Notes on Sewing Books for Kids
[[e-mail] (Carolyn Peterson)]

I think _Let's Sew_ is a good beginning sewing book.  After an older teen or
adult has the basics down from this book and wants to do more on their own, I
suggest _Mother Pletsch's Painless Sewing with Pretty Pati's Perfect Pattern
Primer_ by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch (list $7.50).  It expands on the
basics with additional information about selecting thread, fabric,
interfacings, etc.  There is basic fitting information, more pressing
techniques and more basic sewing tips.  It could also be a good review and
update on sewing techniques for someone who hasn't sewn for years, but wants
to start again.



MFSB: _My First Sewing Book--Hand Sewing_ by Winky Cherry. (list price $8.50)
[[e-mail] (Carolyn Peterson)]

This book is written for the 5-11 year old child.  The projects in it are made
of 2 identical pieces of felt, which are whip stitched most of the way around
the edges, stuffed and whip stitched shut.  The projects are very appropriate
for that age group.

What I didn't like about the book: The sewing supply list includes thread
snippers--it took a while to convince my 5 year old daughter that it was ok to
use scissors to cut the thread.  The recommended needles and thread were a
nuisance to locate--finally just used regular thread and needles I had on
hand.  I didn't care for the instructions for knotting thread and finishing
up.  The book is written in an awkward rhyme.

I am usually a big fan of Palmer/Pletsch books, but was disappointed
with this one.  It is the only one I have found that is geared toward a
student that young, though.



LS: _Let's Sew--A Beginner's Sewing Guide_ by Nancy Zieman. (list price $5.95)
[[e-mail] (Carolyn Peterson)]

This book is written for the teenager and pre-teens.  It starts out with a
reasonable supply list (IMO), explains the parts of a sewing machine and a
serger, covers some information about information on patterns and some
information about selecting fabrics.  The fabric information isn't extremely
detailed, but has very basic information for a beginner.

One odd point was the book jumping into how to lengthen and shorten patterns,
with little or no other fitting information.  The cutting and marking
information is good, but I did feel *old* when I noticed tailor tacks weren't
on the list of marking methods!

I thought the sections on seaming, finishing seams and pressing were well
done.  It covered facings, casings, hemming, darts, gathering, a wrapped
corner collar, zippers, tips for knits, closures, setting in sleeves and
putting in waistbands.

The book uses new sewing gadgets and techniques, to make things easier instead
of insisting you learn the old, hard way first.  Example: for hemming, it
suggests you may want to machine stitch or fuse the hem on the first project.



Sewing books on home decorating:

Todo:

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Archive-name: crafts/textiles/books/part2
Last-modified: 6 Dec 1994

Part 2 of 2 of the Textile Books FAQ:

Books on Fitting:
    IF: Introduction to fitting
    VF: Vogue Fitting. Sandra Lenker.
    FF: Fabulous Fit. Patricia Perry (editor)
    MYCF: Making Your Clothes Fit. Patricia Burkhart Smith.

Books on Pattern Drafting:
    IPD: Brief intro to subject of pattern drafting
    PFD: Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Helen Joseph Armstrong.
    EK: Ernestine Kopp's series of books. Ernestine Kopp, et. al.
    PPfD: Professional Patternmaking for Designers. Jack Handford.
    DD: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making.
        Marion Hillhouse & Evelyn Mansfield
    MPD: Modern Pattern Design. Harriet Pepin.
    AFD: Art of Fashion Draping. Connie Amaden-Crawford.
    DfFD: Draping for Fashion Design. Hilde Jaffe & Nurie Relis
    PD: Precision Draping. Nelle Weymouth Link.
    PoFPD: Principles of Flat Pattern Design. Nora MacDonald & Ann Weibel.
    HtMSP:  How to Make Sewing Patterns. Donald. H. McCunn.
    FoMFD: Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design. Nasaaki Kawashima.
    MPCfM: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. Winifred Aldrich.
    TS:  Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin.
    S: Sleeves. Louise Todd Cape.
    FDPS: Fashion Design for the Plus-Size. Frances Leto Zangrillo.
    GTfMD: Grading Techniques for Modern Design.
        Jeanne Price & Bernard Zamkoff
    MNPD: Miscellaneous notes on Pattern Drafting

Miscellaneous:
    DD: Decorative Dressmaking. Sue Thompson
    MYOJC: Make Your Own Japanese Clothes. John Marshall.
    FYF: Flatter Your Figure. Jan Larkey.
    GE: Great Expectations (maternity)
    ARtW: Altering Women's/Men's Ready to Wear

Craft:
    ST: How to Make and Design Stuffed Toys. Rudi de Sarigny.
    SMG: Sew Many Gifts, Sew Little Time (Chris Rankin)

Embellishment:
        101E: 101 Embellishments (Janet Rostocki)



FAQ: Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?


Books on Fitting:

IF: Introduction to fitting

Many standard sewing references include some sections on altering patterns for
fitting.  In particular, you may want to check out:
    RDCGtS: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
    VSB: The Vogue Sewing Book
    SSSbS: Singer's Sewing Step by Step
    VBSbSGtST: The Vogue/Butterick Step By Step Guide To Sewing Techniques
    SB: Sandra Betzina's books
    NZ: Nancy Zieman's books and videos
    T: New books from Taunton Press


Alterations come in two sorts:

-small alterations that are generally made along seam lines or dart lines and
can be made during the fitting stage.  Ideally, if you can buy the right size
pattern you should only need this sort of alteration.  It helps if you have a
multi size pattern and can put several patterns sizes together (i.e. bodice
size XX, skirt size YY).

-large alterations that involve redrafting parts of the pattern (typically
slashing and spreading or overlapping).

_The Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing_, _Vogue Book of Sewing_ and
_Vogue Book of Fitting and Alteration_ discuss both methods.  Both have
slightly more emphasis on the first method; which is appropriate.  Good books
on pattern drafting discuss many of the techniques used in the second form of
alterations.  An understanding of drafting techniques will help during major
pattern alterations.


SRL,PF: _Singer Reference Library: The Perfect Fit_:

A good introduction to fitting with beautiful photos, but not quite as
complete as several of the other books available.  Still it covers most of the
common alterations neccessary. The introductory chapters discuss garment ease,
figure analysis and taking measurements. The section on adjustments shows pin
fitting a tissue pattern (can you *really* do this?  without a helper?) and
fitting as you sew.  Then there is a large fitting section that shows
photographs of common fitting problems and minor and major adjustments for
correcting them. _The Perfect Fit_ is the only fitting books I have seen that
uses color photos instead of drawings and this can be extremely useful.  _The
Perfect Fit_ is also very well organized; if you read through it once it can
be used regularly as a reference book.

Additional comments from Marie-Christine Mahe [[e-mail]]
What really makes the Singer book unique is the use of photos.  Each problem
is presented in mild and severe form, so you can tell easily what the pattern
companies consider as a real objective problem.  There are so many people
running around with distorted body images that it's very useful to be able to
look at 2 pictures and see that you only have a mild case of square shoulders
or big thighs or whatever, or a really serious case of skinny arms.  Moreover,
the adjustments also come in 2 versions: the easy one for the mild cases, and
the slash-and-rip ones everyone else recommend, but only for the extreme
cases.  I haven't seen any other book that makes such a clear distinction
between the possible adjustments and why you'd want to use one or the other.
Of course, you can also slide and pivot, but that really falls into the more
extreme category too.  Most people really only need small adjustments, if any,
and these are rarely explained so well.

Additional comments [[e-mail] (Deborah Trytten)]:
Go to the store and buy the Singer Reference Library Fitting Book.  It's a
gem.  I found out things about my figure that I never knew before.  I had
always thought that my fitting problems came about because I am large busted.
Come to find out, that's only half of the problem.  The other half was that I
have narrow shoulders.  They have hundreds of pictures of fitting problems and
the cause.  I was paging through it when I saw this weird front armhole gap
that shows up on all my clothing.  Then I started measuring, and found out
that my shoulders are very narrow--and I had never suspected it.  Give it a
try.  It's as painless as fitting can be.


VF: Vogue Fitting

_Vogue Fitting_: If you just want to look at one book, this is probably the
best one.  It only covers fitting and is fairly complete in it's treatment of
alteration techniques.  It should be available in many stores for about $15
(paperback).  You'll certainly have no problem ordering it.

Vogue fitting : the book of fitting techniques, adjustments, and alterations /
  [writer, Sandra Lenker ; illustrator, Phoebe Gaughan ; editor, Helen Moore].
  -- New York : Harper & Row, 1987, c1984.  192 p.



FF: Fabulous Fit

_Fabulous Fit_. Butterick Publishing Company.  This book was printed in about
1977 and is now out of print.  I like this book slightly better than _Vogue
Fitting_, but both are good books.  I believe Butterrick and Vogue are owned
by the same parent company, so this book has also been called _The Vogue
Sewing Book of Fitting, Adjustments and Alterations_.

The Vogue sewing book of fitting, adjustments, and alterations.
  [The Vogue sewing book of fittings, adjustments, and alterations]
  Fabulous fit / [editor, Patricia Perry]. -- New York : Butterick Fashion
Marketing Co., c1977.
  190 p., [6] leaves of plates : ill. ; 26 cm.
  "Also published in hardcover as The Vogue sewing book of fittings,
adjustments, and alterations ... (third edition, 1977)."
  Includes index.


MYCF: Making Your Clothes Fit

_Making Your Clothes Fit_ by Patricia Burkhart Smith. This book was also
published in the 1970's and is out of print.  I like this book alot.  It
consists of a page of pictures that show common fitting problems with pictures
on the opposite page that shows the appropriate adjustment.  This book
concentrates on the smaller adjustments; I am not sure whether or not it shows
the large adjustments.





Books on Pattern Drafting:


IPD: Brief intro to subject of pattern drafting

Basically there are three methods that designers use.  Most designers use a
combination of several of the methods.

Initial patterns are drafted from a series of instructions based on the
measurements of an individual body.  These patterns which are often called
basic slopers.  Typically this system is used to design slopers for basic
pants, a basic bodice and a basic dress and the slopers are then modified with
flat pattern methods to create new designs.  All basic slopers fit the body
snugly with minimum ease.  Many pattern books from the 1800's discuss drafting
complex dresses and suits using body measurements, but today this method is
used mainly for slopers.

Flat pattern methods take basic sloper patterns and alter them into more
sophisticated patterns.  This is probably the most widely used method.  The
basic principles are slashing and spreading.  Some pattern makers use pivoting
in addition to or instead of the spreading step.  The books on flat pattern
drafting show you how to cut lines on the original pattern and manipulate the
pattern pieces to get a completely different pattern.  One basic principle is
how to move or eliminate darts in order to change the drape of the pattern and
the design ease.  Pivoting is particularly useful for moving darts from one
part of a pattern to another.

Some of the steps in flat pattern drafting can be similar to the modifications
you might have to make when drastically adjusting the size of a pattern (e.g.
changing it 4-8 sizes).  For this sort of major modification you cannot adjust
at the seam lines, you must slash and spread the pattern to re-proportion all
parts of it.  The new Sewing Basics section of Threads magazine has shown a
number of slash and spread modifictions that you may need to solve some common
fitting problems.

The third method is draping.  In draping a piece of muslin is pinned directly
to a dress dummy (or even a 1/2 or 1/4 scale dress dummy!).  Draping gives you
immediate feedback about the way the cloth hangs.  Many people drape with
muslin for initial experiments and use the cloth they intend to use for a
advanced draping to get a better feel for the drape of the final fabric.

Many of these books discuss flat pattern methods.  A few books such as {PFD:}
and {DD:} combine draping and flat pattern design. The Hillhouse and Mansfield
book discusses the appropriate uses for both draping and flat pattern design.
The Armstrong book discusses both but concentrates on flat pattern design.

Pattern drafting books are not available in most bookstores.  Universities
with large programs in fashion design will carry some of these books, possibly
as textbooks.  Many of these books are fairly expensive.  It can be very
useful to preview the books by reading through them at a good University
library or borrowing them from an InterLibrary Loan program before you
purchase them.  Several mail order places carry a range of books on drafting;
check Hard to Find Needlework Books for old and new books and Unicorn Books
for new books.  (See the sewing FAQ for more information on these places.)

These reviews are based on the subjects that the books cover and the clarity
of the illustrations and writing. In short, these reviews are from a
well-read, but inexperienced, hobbyist in the pattern drafting field.


PFD: Patternmaking for Fashion Design

- Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Helen Joseph Armstrong. c. 1986. New York.
Harper & Row. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37 gives c. as
1987.)  (has been highly recommended in Threads several times) (has been
highly recommended as a single all-in-one book for flat pattern + draping in
Jan/Feb 1991 Threads).  I agree that this is probably the best all-in-one book
that I have seen that is currently in print.  It's somewhat expensive ($45+),
but it is about 700 pages and covers a very wide range of subjects and
alterations.  If you want one book, I think this is the book to get.


EK: Ernestine Kopp's series of books

- How to Draft Basic Patterns, 3rd edition. Ernestine Kopp et.al. c. 1984. New
York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37) Describes making the basic slopers
needed for _DAttFP_ and _NFAfDAttFP_ from either standard measurements
(provided thru size 18) or from individual measurements.  Basic slopers for
sleeve (fitted and straight), skirt, pants, bodice, maybe more.

- Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern, 5th edition.  Ernestine Kopp. c.
1981. New York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) Uses the basic slopers
and flat pattern methods to create a wide range of patterns.

- New Fashion Areas for Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern.  Kopp,
Ernestine, et al.  Sequel to _Designing thru the Flat Pattern_.  Interesting,
but fairly old (1972).  Includes some interesting sections, incl a chapters on
capes, hoods, and cowls.

The three books by Kopp are a good, and fairly complete, intro to all aspects
of flat pattern design.  Of course, purchasing three books represents a
considerable investment.  The _Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern_
book can pretty well stand alone, but you may need the _Basic Patterns_ book
to get some of the slopers if you are hard to fit, etc.


PPfD: Professional Patternmaking for Designers

- Professional Patternmaking for Designers. Jack Handford.  This is a pretty
good book that is probably still in print. It is a one book intro to drafting
slopers and flat pattern design.  It's spiral bound and about $25.  You'll
probably have to special order it.  I can look up the publisher if you can't
find it in Books In Print.



DD: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making
    [HIST-COST] 1930's & 1940's

- Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making.  Marion Hillhouse and Evelyn
Mansfield. c. 1948. Boston. Houghton-Miffin. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67) Clear
instructions on draping, with excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and
neckline styles.  Perfect for reproducing styles of the 1940's. (Threads #30).
This is a GREAT book! Lots of draping examples.  Also lots of exercise for
flat pattern drafting.

_Dress Design_ is one of the most comprehensive all-in-one books.  There is a
large chapter at the front that discusses fitting and making a master shell.
The rest of the book discusses both draping and flat pattern making
techniques.  Alot of information on making a good dress dummy, drafting and
fitting basic slopers, using slopers for more complex design.  It emphasizes
designs popular in the 1940's.



MPD: Modern Pattern Design
    [HIST-COST] 1930's & 1940's

- Modern Pattern Design.  Harriet Pepin. c. 1942.  Drafting slopers and slash
and spread modifications.  Has many neat ideas for 1940 style clothing.  Many
unique cuts, etc.  I found this in a used book store and really like it.  It's
not quite as good as the Hillhouse and Mansfield book, but it's still a pretty
good all-in-one reference.


AFD: Art of Fashion Draping

This book is a good general introduction to draping.  The book contains many
clear illustrations and takes you through draping many different styles step
by step.  Of the draping books that I have read this book appears to be the
most thorough introduction as well as the book that would be most useful for
someone trying to learn draping from scratch.  The illustrations show you
exactly how to place the muslin material and the hand motions to use while
smoothing it and controlling darts.

The Art of Fasion Draping. Connie Amaden-Crawford. Fairchild Publications.
copyright 1989. 307 pages. (available from Unicorn as of 4/92; see sewing FAQ)


DfFD: Draping for Fashion Design

This book has good directions for draping many styles of bodices, necklines,
princess seam variations, bodices with unique yokes, skirts and cowls at the
neckline, armhole and waist.  The book illustrates a wide variety of styles.
The book uses only draping methods, it does not include flat pattern
alterations. Many other books use flat pattern methods for some of the yokes
and cowls that are draped in this book.

The illustrations and descriptions in this book are adequate.  The
illustrations and text often do not include details about how you should
smooth the fabric over the dress form.  For example, the illustrations in
{AFD:} and {PD:} typically contain arrows showing the position and direction
appropriate for using your hand to smooth the fabric in each step.  {DfFD:}
seldom includes this level of detail.

Draping for Fashion Design. Hilde Jaffe and Nurie Relis. c. 1973.  Reston
Publishing Co (a Prentice-Hall Company). (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37) ($27,
9/89)


PD: Precision Draping [HIST-COST] 1940's

This book provides well illustrated instructions for draping many of the
styles that were popular in the 1940's.  The illustrations show how to lay the
cloth and how to smooth it on the dress form.  This is a good general
introduction to draping and particularly useful for anyone that wants to
recreate the styles of the 1940's.  The book uses some flat pattern methods to
show alterations for sleeves, yokes and skirts.  The book covers only women's
clothing and does not include pants.

Precision Draping. Nelle Weymouth Link. Funk and Wagnalls, copyright 1948.
Check for this book through Interlibrary Loan.


PoFPD: Principles of Flat Pattern Design

- Principles of Flat Pattern Design by Nora M. MacDonald and Ann Weibel.  For
a Textile Arts class. Spring 1991.  Spiral, $30.  I've looked through this and
it seems like a good book on flat pattern methods.  Starts with a few chapters
on pivoting.


HtMSP:  How to Make Sewing Patterns

- How to Make Sewing Patterns, rev. ed. Donald. H. McCunn. c1977. Drafting
patterns from  39 body measurements to create slopers. Some notes on flat
pattern methods.  Includes directions for making own customer dress form.
Has both women's and men's basic patterns. This book was reviewed in the Sep
issue of Sew News. It's now available in softcover for $16.95 + $4 S&H from
Blue Feather Products Box2, Ashland, OR 97520.
To order by credit card [phone] or fax [phone].


FoMFD: Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design

This is a book about drafting suits from individual measurements.  A wide
variety of men's suits are illustrated.  Of course, many of the illustrations
show styles that were popular in the late 1960's and early 1970's.  However
many of the patterns for formal attire are relatively timeless.  I know of no
other book that contains such a variety of men's patterns drafted from
measurements.

Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design: A Guide to Tailored Clothes.  Masaaki
Kawashima. Fairchild Publications.  copyright 1974.  ISBN 87005-105-9.
Available from Unicorn as of 4/92.


MPCfM: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear
    [[e-mail] (Mr M. Grice)]
_Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear_ by Winifred Aldrich
(Oxford: BSP Professional, 1990 - 2nd Edition)

(My copy of this book is actually the first edition, however, the second
edition is essentially the same with the addition of a chapter on Computer
Aided Designing (CAD) in pattern drafting.)

The book covers the basic principles in metric sizing, taking body
measurements, how to use the basic blocks (slopers), devloping basic blocks
for casual wear, sleeve variations, trousers, coats, nightwear and the classic
suit.  A separate chapter covers adapting the men's blocks to women's wear
(essentially darting the blocks).

The instructions are extremely detailed, with very accurate (to scale?)
drawings of what the blocks and adapted patterns should look like.  The
development of adaptations such as extended shoulder lines, lowered armhole
(easy fitting) and combinations thereof is very well described.  The chapter
on collars (shirts and jackets) removes much of the uncertainty that I have
found in other books on pattern drafting.

The criticisms I have are that the adaptations described are a little
conservative, the book is based on the metric system of measurement (which
personally is not a problem, but may put others off), and the chapter on CAD.
As a computing professional I found the discussion on CAD for pattern drafting
to be too high-level, with the focus being on systems found in large
production environments.

On the whole, the book gives comprehesive coverage to various aspects of
pattern drafting of interest to the "home" pattern cutter.


TS:  Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way

- Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin. I found this book in
a used book store.  It's a bit old (60's?), but seems to be reasonably
complete.  It's mostly for drafting and making men's suits; women's suits are
a chapter tacked on to the end.  Paulin shows how to draft the pattern based on
measurements and then adjust as needed during the first fit.


S: Sleeves [HIST-COST] drafting sleeves

This is a collections of unusual sleeve designs that may be useful for anyone
doing costuming or historical costuming.  Many of the designs are too unusual
for daily clothing.  However if you need to design fancy or unusual sleeves
for clothing from the 1500 - 1900 era you may find this book very useful. You
may have to search a bit to find this book; check Interlibrary Loan Programs
and Unicorn books.

Sleeves: A Treasury of Ideas, Techniques and Patterns.  Louise Todd Cape.
Copyright 1988.  Coat of Arms Press, Box 1, Penland, North Carolina 28765.


FDPS: Fashion Design for the Plus Size

This book is written for a student designer.  It discusses some of the common
figure types for larger women, some standard design tricks that can be
flattering.  The largest section discusses introductory drafting and draping
techniques for making slopers and altering the slopers to make some
complementary designs.  The last section discusses grading for sizes 14-24.
This book may be useful if you are doing alot of designing for larger women.
Most of the topics and techniques are covered more thoroughly in other books,
however this book concentrates on the problems most common in larger women.
If you're not sure how useful it will be, check for it in a library before you
buy it.

Fashion Design for the Plus Size. Frances Leto Zangrillo. copyright 1990.
Fairchild Publications.  ISBN 87005-677-8.  Available from Unicorn 4/92.


GTfMD: Grading Techniques for Modern Design

_Grading Techniques for Modern Design_ shows pictures of standard pattern
pieces and shows how they should be slashed and expanded in order to regrade
them.  I believe they start with the industry standard size 12 (?) and show
regradings up and down for most women's sizes.  I once used the techniques in
this book combined with the pictures in the _Reader's Digest_ book to alter a
dress pattern from size 12 to about size 18.  I slashed the pattern in the
places indicated by the book and used their charts as a guideline for
spreading the pattern.

Price, Jeanne. Grading techniques for modern design / by Jeanne Price and
Bernard Zamkoff.  New York : Fairchild Publications, c1974. ix, 132 p. : ill.

See Also: article on pattern grading in Threads, issue #29, June/July 1990.
Good intro.

See Also: _Grading for the Fashion Industry, the Theory and Practice_ by
Patrick Taylor and Martin Shoben.  London: Hutchinson and Co, LTD. 1984. (from
a reference in Threads issue #29).  A complex and comprehensive text, from an
apparel manufacturers viewpoint.  Includes a survey of 34 body measurements
(in metric) as well as two and three dimentional grading for missy bodices,
skirts, sleeves and pants.


MNPD: Miscellaneous notes on Pattern Drafting

I have seen recommendations for the following books, but have never read them.
The recommendations came from a "Best of Out of Print Dressmaking Books"
article in Threads and references from other articles.

Flat Pattern Design. Allyn Bane. c. 1972. (out of print). New York.
McGraw-Hill. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67)

Dress Pattern Designing: The Basic Principles of Cut and Fit, 5th edition. c.
1986. Natalie Bray. London. Collins. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37)

More Dress Pattern Designing, 4th edition. Natalie Bray.  c. 1986. London.
Collins. (Ref: Threads #11, pg. 37)

Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method, 7th edition.  Norma R. Hollen and
Carolyn Kundel. c.  1981. New York. Fairchild. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67).
(Note: Threads #11, pg 37 gives c. as 1972 (?).)

Clear-Cut Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method. Mary Gorgen Wolfe. c.
1982. New York. MacMillan. (Ref: Threads #14, pg. 67)


- In Threads #21 (spring 1989) there is an article about Madeleine Vionnet by
Betty Kirke.  Vionnet designed clothes in the 20's and used bias cuts
extensively.  The article states that Betty Kirke is working on a book about
Madeleine Vionnet.  It should be interesting!  I keep checking for this book
in Books In Print and looking for articles about it.  I have not seen any
evidence of the book yet, guess it's time to write to Threads and ask them
what's up.

- Patternmaking and Design.  Antionette Colicchio & Burr D. Coe. c. 1967.
This book uses flat pattern methods.  It emphasizes designs popular in the
60's.  This book might be hard to find as it appears to be from a small
publisher or possibly even self published.



Miscellaneous Books:

DD: Decorative Dressmaking [HIST-COST]

Dressmaking details and techniques common in the first half of the 20th
century (1900 - 1940 or so).  Each chapter describes the sewing techniques,
shows pictures and illustrations of a number of garments and includes a
project, generally with a scaled pattern (in sizes small, medium and large).
Suggests and techniques can easily be applied to commercial patterns also; the
charted patterns in the book have minimal sizing.  The pictures and drawings
of techniques and variations are very inspirational. Chapters include:

1) Flounces: Using flounces and ruffles on skirts and collars.  Circular,
spiral and shaped flounces.  Appropriate materials, finishing edges,
variations.  Pattern for simple dress with flounced collar at neckline.

2) Stripes: Creating interesting designs with stripes.  Skirts, shirts hand
dresses.  Chevron patterns, gored skirts, pleated stripes. Pattern for a dress
with a pleated skirt and striped accents at neckline and hipline.

3) Piping: Types of piping, making piping, cording.  Piping to accent seams or
edges in jackets, shirts and dresses.  Pattern for simple linen jacket and
pants with cording highlights in seams.

4) Topstitching: Topstitching or quilting accents on collars, cuffs, yokes and
hats. Pattern for a boiler suit (simple pants-suit) with topstitching on wide
collar.

5) Pintucks: Using pintucks to add design and accents to skirts, jackets.
Using pintucks to control fullness in blouses, skirts.  Pattern for pintucked
jacket and skirt with pintucks on collar, waist, pockets, yoke and front of
skirt.

6) Applique: Appliqued desings on clothing.  Somewhat "60's-ish".  Pattern for
caftan with a white on white appliqued pattern.

7) Bands and Bindings: Making and using bindings.  Classic 1940's suits with
bound edges as an accent.  Binding garment edges.  Using binding on garment
seams (bind one edge and sew seam together with an overlap seam).
Incorporating bands into a pattern for accents, either inset bands or bands
sewn over seam allowances.  Pattern for a full (oversized?) winter coat with
banded seams and edges.

8) Pleats and Tucks: Making pleats, marking pleats, pressed pleats, inverted
pleats, partly stitched pleats, horizontal pleats, pleats in jackets,
combining pleats and stripes. Pattern for pleated top and skirt that uses
striped material for added interest.

9) Ruching: Adding bands of ruching to dresses, jackets, blouses for
detailing.  Rouching in garments, for example as gathering to form shaping for
the bust of a dress.  Altering a pattern to add strips of rouching.  Altering
a pattern to incorporate ruching (e.g. all-over gathering) in the garment
seamlines. Pattern for an evening dress adapted for ruching.

10) Faggoting: Making faggoting strips and sewing them together.  Different
embroidery stitches to use. Faggoting in garment seams, collars, yokes, hems.
Patterns for an oversized thick mohair jacket made of strips joined by
faggoting.

Decorative Dressmaking. Sue Thompson. Rodale Press. 1985. ISBN 0-87857-579-0.
Has been available from Hard to Find Needlework Books (see sewing FAQ).



MYOJC: Make Your Own Japanese Clothes.  [HIST-COST]

Detailed directions for making a traditional kimono, outer robe, haori jacket,
hanten jacket, wraparound top, vest, slacks, obi sashes and tabi socks.
Includes comments about using traditional (14" wide) materials and modern
materials.  Includes notes for fitting Westerners who are often larger than
traditional Asian people.  Meticulous details!

Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear.  John
Marshall.  ISBN 0-87011-865-x. $16.95 (paper). 1988. Kodansha International
Ltd.


FYF: Flatter Your Figure.

Includes tests (using a mirror, stick, string and helpers) for about 20 figure
features such as short legs, short or long waisted, swayback, shape of
shoulders, bust, waist, hips, and arms.  Also analyzes shape of face and
haircut. Advise for deciding which figure features are advantages, which are
minor disadvantages and which are major disadvantages.  A section showing many
basic garment shapes explains which are favorable or unfavorable for various
figures.  Discusses camaflaging common problems, accenting your best features,
and using garment lines to create illusions.  Emphasizes a positive attitude;
accent positive features and don't draw attention to less desireable features.
Advise for balancing conflicting advise (e.g. styles that are good for some of
your features but bad for other features).

This subject is usually covered in general sewing references, but FYF is a
much more comprehensive guide.  Recommended for people who sew their own
clothing or buy ready made.  Illustrates and discusses women's clothing only.

Flatter Your Figure. Jan Larkey.  $9.95 ISBN 0-13-321795-7. 1991.  Prentice
Hall / Simon Schuster.  Larkey had an article in Threads in ?early 1991? that
contained a number of the ideas in FYF.


Craft:
ST: How to Make and Design Stuffed Toys. Rudi de Sarigny, New York;Dover
Publications, 1971.
    >It includes a number of patterns for animals (bunny, teddy bear, panda,
    poodle, elephant, camel, giraffe, monkey, circus dog).


SMG: Sew Many Gifts, Sew Little Time (Chris Rankin) Sterling/Lark, 1994
128pp, $24.95 ($34.95 Canada) 50+ special projects including practical, cute,
decorative, etc. Many don't require a pattern, but those that do have patterns
included. Sterling Publishing Co.; 387 Park Ave S; New York, NY 10016
1-800-848-1186 or fax [phone]


Embellishment:
101E: 101 Embellishments (Janet Rostocki) Summa Design, 1994
40 pp, $14.50. Divided into chapters by embellishment type: beads,
buttons, dyes, fabrics, jewels, laces, paints, ribbons, sequins, threads,
and trims.  Most chapters begin with a "You should know" tip about
the embellishment material. Provides space for you to write in your
own experiences, thoughts, designs, whatever. Summa Design, Box 666,
Vandalia, OH 45377. (need to include $2 P&H)



FAQ: Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?

There are three textile related FAQs that I maintain. The first concentrates
on general sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing
machines.  The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing.
The third posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and
pattern drafting.

There are other FAQs available.  Please post a query to the newsgroup
asking about them.  There currently exists a Fabric Shop FAQ that I
know of.  There are numerous others available.

When looking for an FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant
newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line.  If you don't know how
to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the
group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there.  Again, your sysadmin
can tell you the commands to use in searching.

If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from
Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings.  For general instructions on
the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no
quotes, separate lines) to
    [e-mail]
For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email
the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server.

via anonymous FTP:
Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" in the
directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are:
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2

via email server:
The address of the server is [e-mail].  To retrieve files,
send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines
in the body:
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2

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